Why does San Miguel de Allende celebrate the Spanish Conquest?

The solemnisation of El Señor de la Conquista is 1 of San Miguel de Allende’s astir important events. Every year, connected the archetypal Friday of March, hundreds of Indigenous Hñähñu (Otomi) dancers stitchery to grant a life-size statue of Christ that has been safeguarded successful the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel for implicit 400 years.

A past of religion and conflict

The Indigenous Hñähñu radical of modern-day Guanajuato fiercely resisted the Spanish conquest for galore years. (Nicojs/Wikimedia)

Shortly aft the municipality of San Miguel was founded successful 1542, Spanish missionaries began efforts to colonize the Central Mexican Plateau and evangelize its Indigenous peoples, whom the Spanish referred to arsenic “Chichimecas.” Threatened by Spanish slave-raiding and determined to support their lands, the Chichimecas resisted fiercely, warring the colonizers for 50 years successful what is present called the Chichimeca War.

In 1564, Vasco de Quiroga, the archetypal bishop of Michoacán, officially established San Miguel arsenic a parish, entrusting Franciscan friars with the ngo of converting the autochthonal population. In 1580, 2 friars acceptable retired from Valladolid, present Morelia, accompanied by a tiny radical of Spanish soldiers. According to humanities records, the friars carried 2 ample crucifixes, some made successful Pátzcuaro utilizing the pasta de caña, oregon maize pulp technique, to entreaty to autochthonal traditions. 

As they approached San Miguel, the enactment was ambushed by Chichimeca warriors astatine the tract present known arsenic El Puente del Fraile. Just earlier dying, the friars are said to person clutched the crucifixes tightly, covering them with their blood.

A fewer soldiers survived and brought the crucifixes to San Miguel. One of the crucifixes had mislaid an limb during the attack. Days later, the missing limb was recovered astatine the ambush tract and, erstwhile reattached, it acceptable perfectly, adding to the crucifix’s estimation for miracles.

Dancers capable the streets with noise, perfumed fume and a riot of colour to retrieve the accomplishment of Christianity successful San Miguel de Allende. (Scott Umstattd/scott-pix.com)

It was past decided that 1 crucifix would stay successful the Parroquia, oregon parish church, of San Miguel, portion the different was sent to the municipality of San Felipe. Both were venerated arsenic El Señor de la Conquista: the Lord of the Conquest. The rubric is supposedly meant to grant not subject conquest but alternatively spiritual conversion. Many began attributing miracles to these crucifixes, said to heal the sick and support the portion from epidemics.

The solemnisation of El Señor de la Conquista today

During the assemblage era, the crucifix was carried successful a devotional procession done the town’s main streets, alongside different spiritual images inactive preserved successful adjacent communities. The past recorded procession took spot successful 1842. Since then, the solemnisation consists of gathering astir the Parroquia each twelvemonth connected the archetypal Friday of March. This is preceded by a novena, a nine-day supplication ritual, wherever 33 creeds are recited each day, honoring the 33 years of Christ’s life. 

The lawsuit begins astatine 8 a.m., erstwhile hundreds of dancers dressed successful elaborate accepted attire stitchery astir the Parroquia. The country fills with color, question and dependable portion chiseled groups of worshipers instrumentality their place. The dancers determination to the deep, dependable pulse of drums portion the scent of copal incense marks the abstraction arsenic sacred. As the ritual unfolds, locals and tourists gather, drawn by the almighty vigor that fills the air.

This solemnisation besides marks the commencement of the planting season. The ritual is simply a amusement of gratitude, arsenic if a bully upcoming harvest had already arrived. In this tradition, gratitude comes first, with dancers moving successful solemnisation of the abundance they spot volition come, alternatively than praying for it to happen.

Each constituent successful the dancers’ attire and assemblage overgarment is filled with symbolism, a stunning show of pre-Columbian identity. Their towering headdresses are made of feathers arranged successful elaborate patterns. Many deterioration pectoral plates depicting mythological symbols oregon carnal spirits. Their arms and ankles are wrapped successful rattling effect pods and shells, loudly proclaiming their each step.

Their shoes are usually elemental sandals designed to let interaction with the earth. Many besides transportation shields painted with motifs that correspond warrior heritage. Some shields diagnostic mirrors, believed to bespeak antagonistic vigor and support the bearer. Combined with richly embroidered capes oregon skirts, these garments crook the dancers into moving altars, wherever each constituent carries important meaning.

A paradox of religion and survival

While the festival marks the conquest of Mexico, and the subjugation of Indigenous culture, it besides celebrates the accepted Hñähñu mode of life. (Scott Umstattd/scott-pix.com)

The essence of this festivity tin consciousness similar a contradiction. El Señor de la Conquista was created to people the spiritual conversion of Indigenous radical done colonization and evangelization. Yet today, it is the descendants of those aforesaid archetypal communities who pb the celebration, performing rituals and dances passed down from agelong earlier the Spanish arrived.

The clamorous bushed of steps, drums, rattles and chanting pulls dancers and spectators alike into a trance-like state. This mode of reaching spiritual heights stands successful crisp opposition to Catholic traditions that stress verbal worship and quiescent contemplation.

Like galore different spiritual expressions successful the country, this festivity serves arsenic a surviving testament to Mexico’s quality to clasp aggregate truths astatine once: absorption and compliance, conquest and survival, and Catholic and Indigenous religion. The solemnisation of El Señor de la Conquista is simply a model into the analyzable psyche of Mexico.

How to participate

You tin witnesser the lawsuit astatine immoderate clip passim the day, arsenic the solemnisation continues good into the night. Remember that this is not a show for tourists; it holds heavy spiritual meaning for the dancers and their communities. Treat the space, rituals and participants with respect. Avoid blocking the dancers’ paths and beryllium mindful erstwhile taking photos. By showing reverence and understanding, you grant the contented and the radical who person kept it alive.

Sandra Gancz Kahan is a Mexican writer and translator based successful San Miguel de Allende who specializes successful intelligence wellness and humanitarian aid. She believes successful the powerfulness of connection to foster compassion and knowing crossed cultures. She tin beryllium reached at [email protected]